Focus on: The step from shirt to tie is natural. Swedish Amanda Christensen possesses nearly 125 years experience in slipstillverkning a unique knowledge in the field. Manolo hits Gustaf Lundström at the company to discuss the silk fabric, seven-fold and stitch.
1885 started the 21-year-old teacher Amanda Christensen manufacture of cravats with the motto “not to sell at a price, but a quality”. In just two years successful Christensen set up a company with over 20 employees. in 1949 the company became purveyor to the Royal Court, something they can call themselves today. All production takes place today in Italian Como, where a variety of slipstillverkare houses.
Gustav Lundström, working in sales and design on Amanda Christensen highlights abot unique position in men’s wardrobe:
-Tie is really one of the few accessories and jewelry we men have. Unfortunately lacks Sweden the slipskulturen contained in for example England or Italy. Now, however, a younger generation is starting to open their eyes to the tie and dare to wear something more colorful models to uppklätt as well as a little more casual attire. It is important to demystify the tie as accessory. I, myself, often wearing crocheted ties are an excellent example of informal slipsmode. Like to wear ties to shirts with button-down collars.
What distinguishes as a kvalitetsslips? In terms of the actual design and sewing mean Gustaf Lundström that there are a number of different factors that come into play:
-Stop stitch, which holds together abot back, must be good.Usually sits this 4.5 centimeters above the lower part of abot where both downside. At worse ties can see holes after stoppages stitch moved. Likewise, it is important to the loop on the back is not too small to contain abot downside. Also try the length so that it is not too short. Some people may need a longer slipslängd. Get also all over the tie so that there are no imperfections.
To take advantage of sidentyget maximum cut the ties out of three different parts, which are said to give ties a better case against if it is sewn into a single paragraph. As inserts for better ties is often used a thinner wool lining, allowing the tie to a living form without the tie that week.
A constantly recurring question abot width. Amanda Christensen currently work after two widths, 6 to 8 centimeters.
-It is affected in a very high degree of courage with skjortkragens and Blazer at a rate range. But it is clear that the wider the tie come back after years of skinny domination. As slipstillverkare, it is important to keep track of current fashion to be able to adjust based on what customers actually want.Personally I think abot width shall be chosen according to one’s facial structure and kroppsvidd. People with a wide face and body should choose a normal wide tie, otherwise the tie look disproportionate, “said Gustaf.
What is the significance of the tie sewn for him towards the sewn on the machine?
-On a good hand-sewn tie so much focus is placed on the so-called “loop” or abot artery, which is sewn carefully by hand. Pull it gently in the loop on their tie to pull it together like an accordion and one can easily straighten it out again. On a maskinsydd tie is not as much focus on this detail, the artery can much easier go of which destroys the tie. Also sewing of the lining is important, we use a high quality wool lining as noga applied by hand.Anything to get such a fine form of the tie. Then comes the hand-sewn tie in contact with a machine during the manufacturing process, when it is pushed with a so-called Liba-machine to get their form.
Real slipsnördar often talk about the six-, seven-or ninefold as a sign of quality. What does it mean?
-A regular tie consists of four fold. Six-and seven-fold simply means that the tie has two or three additional fold. Seven fold ties often lack feed without consists entirely of silk, but with its construction becomes the tie thick, rich and beautiful. Six-fold variations are produced in larger extent with a wool lining. The advantages of both of these ties is that you get a very rich and juicy tie. The price is slightly more expensive because it requires more pages, but customers who require this type of models also appreciate really ties. It is quality that know that you wear a hand-sewn tie that held together by only 2 stop stitching. The disadvantage of these variants is that you have to be more careful with how you nurture your tie. Inside one of the end stitch may be finito with the tie.
Of course also plays a central role in the sidenkvalitén. Usually sidenkvalitén is divided into three different weaving techniques: reps, mogador and satin. Reps are a slightly rougher quality where the fabric is clear. Suitable especially for flies. Mogador is a mix of silk and cotton recalls largely on reps even if it’s something nice skaligare in its Tapestry and visible on the thinner ties for the summer season. Satin is almost completely smooth and is often seen on the plain and slightly narrower neckties. Then there are of course also crocheted ties with very coarse texture.
How the customer can best determine which quality silks are?
-Because the tie suffer very much, it is important that the quality is not quite stiff but actually has a little stretch. Test so that the tie gives something when you pull gently on it. Likewise tend to fall slightly worse quality. Try to tie it into the shop and check so that it hangs straight. Then check out also that the tie is 100% silk. Polyester may simply not have the same luster.
How do you see in other qualities such as cashmere and cotton?
-Kashmirslipsar is wonderful, and not least some Italian manufacturers are cruelly good at. It is quite difficult to produce because wool rarely gives the same case. However, wool cashmere is among the very best because other qualities risks becoming something.